I catch my first glimpse of the North Sea and think ofthe pilgrims returning from Jerusalem or other holy places after years of travelling by foot or wagon before their final journey back to Norway or Sweden. It must have been very heartening for them to see the sea! 
Further on, there is a spring, Our Lady Spring, where travelers would quench their thirst. Many people passed this way. A church was built (Lerup Kirke), and a market developed. Then it started becoming bawdy and raucous, and the merchants brought their livestock into the church. A priest finally got fed up, complained to the bishop, and the market was closed.
The next day’s walk, according to the guide, is 23 km. Not true! I end up walking 30 km in nine hours, exhausted again. However, the landscape is very pretty and I have it more or less all to myself except when I pass through summer cottage areas. I see two kinds of orchids and some butterflies.
The walk ends in the beach resort town Blokhus, which is where my grandparents had a summer cottage many years ago. I still have fond memories of visiting them there when I was two years old going on three and again when I was six going on seven. Those were my first two visits to Denmark – but that’s another story. I remember the smell of heather, the feel of the North Sea wind, the warmth of the sand in the dunes and the new potatoes. And of course my wonderful Danish grandparents. 
And so ends this summer’s hiking on Hærvejen. I walked a total of 150 km in the most amazing summer weather we have had for years and look forward to next year, where I will hopefully be able to complete this crazy project. Just another 100 km and I should be done.
