Although the border between Denmark and Germany has moved north and south like fashion’s skirt lengths have moved up and down lady’s legs throughout the centuries, it has continually been necessary to patrol the border and collect customs duties. Until 1958 this job was carried out by gendarmes. During the periods when the border was where it is now, part of the route that the gendarmes covered hugged the coast of Flensborg Fjord. This route has now been turned into an 80-kilometres long hiking path called the Gendarme Path.
Three friends and I lace up our hiking boots and go walking on the route. It takes us four days to walk the 80 km. We start in the hilly, lush green, sun-dappled Kollund Forest.
We discover ponds, flowers and a Silver Y moth that unveil themselves like secret gems when we approach.
We also discover the controversial fence and cattle grids that presently separate Denmark from Germany. They were established to keep out wild pigs and, hopefully, African swine fever in order to protect the Danish pig industry. However, it obviously makes it difficult for other wildlife to migrate back and forth. Deer regularly get stuck in the fence and suffer miserably or even die. To add insult to injury, wild pigs swim quite well, and have been seen paddling happily in the fjord, so I don’t know how effective the fence actually is.
As we walk along the coast, we can see Germany on the other side of the water. So can the cows, that chill out in their hilly pastures with pleasing views. The villages we pass through have old but gorgeous and well-tended villas (expensive I bet!).
The scenery shifts from verdant forest to pebbly beach with trees angling towards the water to dramatic, eroding cliffs.
We ascend into an airy beech forest from which trees tumble down when their foundation slips away.
And on a windy day we discover a boat deck that buckles and sways on the waves – just too tempting for us to keep away from.
Finally, we emerge into farmland before reaching our final goal in the town of Sønderborg. This town was built up around Sønderborg Castle, which was built before 1200. Denmark has such a long and rich history!
