Denmark has an old road, which winds its way through
the backbone of Jutland like a crooked spine. Sometimes it is a mere gravel or
dirt path. Sometimes the road’s ancient cobblestones are still visible. Sometimes
the road almost disappears as it makes its way through a grassy meadow. Other times
it shouts its presence in the shape of a busy asphalted highway. This route has
been the life nerve of Jutland, connecting its farms, hamlets and towns with
the markets, wars and religious destinations south of the border in Germany and
beyond.
Countless merchants, farmers, soldiers, pilgrims,
adventurers, bad guys and good guys, Danes and foreigners have travelled this
route through the centuries and found hope, despair, disappointment, fear,
romance, robbery, rape, adventure, murder and enlightenment. Some have gone
home richer, some poorer, some not at all.
I also intend to follow this route. Armed with a
backpack, map, good shoes and toothbrush, I will walk from the border between
Denmark and Germany all the way up through the peninsula of Jutland until I can
smell the North Sea from the northern coast. This will take me a while, but
even the longest journey begins with one single step forward. So let’s do it! Follow
me as I walk through the landscape and history of Denmark.
