In the town of La Fortuna it seems as though the Arenal volcano is just down at the end of the street. And, wherever we drive in the area, it always seems as though the volcano can be seen in the not-so-far distance. However, just as elusive as the butterflies we see in the rainforests and the butterfly gardens, the very top of the Arenal volcano does not easily reveal itself. It is often veiled in clouds.

Some of us decide to spend a few hours kayaking on Arenal Lake which is at the foot of the volcano. A hydroelectric dam on this 85 km2 man-made lake provides power to Costa Ricans – originally satisfying 70 percent of their needs but now only about 17 percent.

The hilly area around the lake is lovely, encompassing rainforest and cultivated land. Birds abound. The kayaking affords great views in a tranquil setting and, as I find out when we beach the kayaks for a short fruit break, the swimming is great, too.

Another great swimming opportunity is afforded at the Fortuna Waterfall, which is reached by an easy and short hike. The current directly under the waterfall is not conducive to swimming. Instead we swim at a natural pool close by. The current here is still somewhat strong and it is fun to swim against it, playing at being a salmon that is on its way against the current to spawn. When I finally reach a rock I grab on and let the strong water massage my back before letting go and allowing myself to get washed away.