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Many years ago the demigod Tu Te Raki Whanoa of Maori legend went to work on forming the west coast of New Zealand’s South Island. Working his way up from south to north, he used a magical adze but it took him some time to get the hang of it. However, by the time he had reached Fiordland, where Doubtful Sound and Milford Sound are, he had become quite an expert. He carved out perfectly shaped fiords with mountainsides rising straight and true from the water.
Today we enjoy the shadowy beauty of the fine sculpture that the ancient demigod created, a place where Mother Nature often keeps her secrets shrouded in mists and clouds and shadows. We sail into the wind, losing our own breath to the gale force gusts, our words tumbled and lost in the air. The grey skies lend a feeling of mystery and moodiness to the dramatic landscape. Waterfalls that are not there when the weather is sunny and dry now streak the face of the rock like tears.
The road to Milford Sound is steep, stunning and, at times, stark. Rivers engorged with icy snow melt and rainwater are bordered by swathes of colour: pink and purple lupines that grow wild and unfettered. At lower altitudes we walk through incredibly green rainforests where every tree and rock and slope is blanketed with a carpet of verdant moss.
We meet the cheeky keas, the only alpine parrots in the world. They hop about with an awkward gait that makes them look like they are lame. They land on the cars, munch on the rubber sealing and window wipers and make an entertaining nuisance of themselves in all their green finery. When they fly off it is with a flush of orange on the underside of their wings.
